Pariisist naasmine on leidnud aset küll 2 nädalat tagasi, kuid keskkonnasõbraliku / jätkusuutliku moe teema ei vanane eal ning peaegi esitletakse ka Eestis H&M Conscious Exclusive uut kollektsiooni. Seega teen ka mina täppisajastuse ja jutustan mis Pariisis antud teema valguses toimus.
Osalesin pressikonverentsidel ja vestlusringides maailma juhtivate säästva moe ekspertitega ja sealjuures H&M Conscious seeria tehnoloogide, disainerite- ja juhtfiguuridega. Kogu seda infot on raske panna ühte uustuusa postitusse, kuid minu enda jaoks sai väga palju asju selgemaks, rääkimata sellest, et näha ühe kollektsiooni telgitaguseid oli võimas ja loodan oma fotodega seda teistelegi näidata. Meeleldi vastan ka kõikidele teemat puudutavatele küsimustele.
Kuna naasmisest saati olen juba päris palju vestlusi sellel teemal pidanud, siis tooksin ehk välja põhilised üllatavad faktid mida ka oma sõpradele olen pajatanud:
• Fotodel nähtud kõrvarõngad on tehtud orgaanilisest käsitöövaigust mis on segatud teksajääkidega, nimeks sellel DENIMITE.
• Kõik riietel olevad pärltikandid on tehtud vanast purunenud klaasist.
• Enamus kangastest on loodud läbi polüestri taaskäitlemise segades seda orgaanilise siidiga. Suur osa polüestrist on loodud omakorda PET PUDELITEST!
• Kõik riided mida saame annetada H&M poodides sooduskaartide vastu, leiavad oma tee taaskasutusse ja heategevusse kas tervel kujul, ümberdisainimise kujul või hoopis materjali taaskäitlusena luues uusi kangaid. Hetkel annetatud koguse mõõtühikuks saab võtta 62 miljonit särki aastas.
• Põletav küsimus mida jälle ja jälle esitasid paljud ajakirjanikud (kuigi konkreetselt sustainability probleemiga pole sellel seost, aga siiski). Kuidas ikka on tehaste tööjõuga? Aasia tehaste töö on väga tihedalt seotud tehaseriigi majanduse ja poliitikaga ja moemärgid ei oma antud tehaseid, kuid saavad seada neile teatud tingimusi, mida tehased “saavad” omakorda ka rikkuda. H&M koolitab omaltpoolt tööjõudu seisma oma õiguste eest ja püüab seadistada miinimumtasud, tehaste juhtidega käivad pidevad läbirääkimised, töötajatest luuakse informeeritud ühingud, kahjulikud kemikaalid on Conscious kollektsioonides täiesti välistatud ja aegamööda liigub tehnoloogia ka üldtoodangu parendamise suunal. Nende olude positiivne tõus pole ühe päeva töö – robotipõhine tootmine, töötajatest loobumine, palgatõusud (mida jätkuvalt määrab tehaseriigi majandusik tase) võivad hoopis leivata jätta väga paljud pered, küsimus on ju mitte ühes töökohas vaid poliitikas riigiti. Kuid asjad liiguvad. Kurb tõsiasi on see, et olenemata aasias toodetava moe lõpphinnast, saavad töötajad fikseeritud palka, seega kallis asi vs kiirmood ei tähenda alati eetilist asja. Küll on aga kaubamärke kes üritavad tehaste olusid parandada ja on ka neid kes ei hooli. Minu silmis pole hetkel veel H&M struktuur ideaalne, kuid erinevalt teistest liigub see taaskäitluse ja muutuste suunal, probleem mida peab lahendama moemärkide väliselt tehaseriikide ja moetarbijate poolt on mõistmine ja kaasatulek jätkusuutliku moetööstusega.
• Jutt kisub vist pikale ja lõpetan lihtsa teabega. Mida tähendab “orgaaniline puuvill” või “orgaaniline siid” (näiteks nagu täiesti tavalistel soodsatel Conscious tsärkidel on märgitud)? See tähendab seda, et kasvatustel pole kasutatud kahjulikke kemikaale, pestitsiide, insektitsiidide, GMO’d ning seeläbi on materjali tervislikum koguda ja ka maakeral mõnusam olla. (Muide ka tavalise H&M tootmise standardid on tublimalt karmimad kui näiteks EU standardid).
My return from Paris H&M Conscious Exclusive event took place almost 2 weeks ago, but sustainable fashion topic is never old and Estonia is now launching the Exclusive collection so I’m right on time with Paris report & taking my time to talk it over.
I took part in press conferences, talks & an exhibition with the leading professionals on sustainability and closing the circle of fashion, there where bright minds from all over the world including H&M Conscious creative directors, designers, leaders and technical pro’s. It’s hard to gather all that’s going thru my mind in one newkewl article, but I hope you get the feeling from my photography and I’m happy to answer any questions.
As I’ve been back home I’ve been talking on this topic a lot, so I decided to make a list of the most interesting facts on the topic, that I’ve discussed with some friends:
• Earrings you see in the pictures are created from a new material called DENIMITE. It consists of organic resin and denim waste.
• All the embroidery you see on the clothes is by recycled shattered glass.
• Most of the fabrics is a mix of polyester and organic silk. Polyester on the other hand is often created using recycled PET BOTTLES and reuse of old polyester.
• Clothes that clients donate in the H&M shops for a discount coupon, go thru recycling process. Some of them go to redesign projects, undamaged things to the people in need, materials that can be turned into completely new fabric get new life. The amount of donations can be measured in 62 millions of t-shirts.
• The burning question that a lot of journalists asked during a press conference (which actually isn’t about production sustainability, but still) was – How about the work labour? You must know that factories are not owned by fashion companies and altho white knights of fashion industry try to determine better minimum wages, working hours and healthy environment, it’s not often positively met by “locals”. As much as I know H&M is trying to school the workers to know their rights, tries to set boundaries and be ethical. But it’s not always possible to control what really happens on the spot. At least in the Conscious collections there are no harmful chemicals and overall industry is working it’s way forward making everything conscious. But making it happen is not a work of one or two days, it’s a long political process that is widely controlled by the economy in the production countries. If you just hire robots instead of people in a day imagine how many families will be left without their only income, so yes it’s not about one job, it’s about business infrastructure of huge countries and of course it’s easier to critique rather than understand. The sad fact is that when some fashion companies sell things from the same factories for a higher price, the working labour still gets the same amount, so final price in fast fashion doesn’t determine the labour fee at the moment. There are brands that do not care and there are brands who try to make a change, invest in new approach and steadily move for change. I don’t think H&M structure is already perfect, but I do see that they are doing something positively different from the others. And we need to understand that in order to change the industry we must change ourself, ask for sustainability, ask how things are made, care.
• Last but not least, what does “Organic cotton” or “Organic silk” mean? It means that there are no harmful pesticides, insecticides, GMO´s or harsh chemicals used in the plantations, people who collect fiber are healthier and the earth is healthier too. (By the way also in a regular H&M productions the standards for healthier production are tougher than the EU standards).
H&M Conscious Exclusive designer Kathrin Deutsch.
This is the first time H&M has designed sustainable wedding dresses. The installation featuring conscious wedding dresses was created by Korean artist Tae Gon Kim.
Close the loop – What if a garment could get reused, remade or recycled? Again and again and again?
“H&M is one of the biggest users of organic cotton in the world with the ambition for all the cotton in H&M’s range to come from sustainable sources by 2020”
And before further conversation, I urge you to read this piece by Kelly Drennan: [read] :)
See the full collection [here]
Yup, that’ll do it. You have my aptpeciarion.
That’s a skillful answer to a diuilcfft question
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